Barcelona Beyond the Sagrada Família

Everyone queues for two buildings. Meanwhile Barcelona is full of Modernisme that you can walk straight into: hospital pavilions, market halls, apartment blocks with staircases worth the detour.

Start in Gràcia and work down. The density of good buildings per kilometre is higher than anywhere on the standard route, and the cafés are better.

Save the famous two for a weekday morning in the shoulder season, or skip them without guilt.